Diver watches have a rich history, beginning in the early 20th century when underwater exploration and diving started gaining popularity. Here’s a timeline outlining the key moments:
Pre-1920s: Early Beginnings
The need for reliable underwater watches emerged as deep-sea exploration became more common. Watches at this time were usually housed in waterproof cases, but no specialized diver’s watches existed.
1926: The Rolex Oyster
Rolex pioneered the first truly waterproof wristwatch, the Rolex Oyster, introduced in 1926. It featured a hermetically sealed case, which became the foundation for future dive watches, though it wasn’t initially marketed specifically for diving.
1932: Omega Marine
In 1932, Omega released the Omega Marine, which was the first watch to be advertised as being specifically designed for underwater use. It had a rectangular case and was tested to withstand depths of up to 135 meters (443 feet).
1953: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
The modern dive watch was truly born with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in 1953. Developed in collaboration with French military divers, it featured a rotating bezel to track dive time, a luminous dial, and robust water resistance. It was rated to withstand 50 fathoms (91 meters).
1953: Rolex Submariner
In the same year, Rolex introduced the legendary Rolex Submariner, which would go on to become one of the most iconic dive watches ever. The Submariner was initially water-resistant to 100 meters and later became the standard for professional and recreational divers. This model solidified the rotating bezel and high water resistance as essential dive watch features.
1965: Seiko 62MAS
Japan entered the diver watch market with the Seiko 62MAS (model 6217), Seiko’s first true dive watch. It had a water resistance of 150 meters and became a favorite among divers for its rugged build and affordability.
1970: Omega Seamaster Ploprof
In 1970, Omega launched the Seamaster Ploprof (Plongeur Professionnel), an extremely robust watch designed for professional divers. It was tested to extreme depths (up to 600 meters) and had a distinctive case and crown lock system to prevent water ingress.
1980: The Quartz Era and Depth Milestones
During the 1970s and 1980s, quartz technologys made watches more affordable, and dive watches also embraced this trend. In 1983, Seiko released its first quartz Tuna Can Diver, water-resistant up to 1000 meters, and in 1980, Rolex introduced the Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, a watch capable of withstanding depths up to 4000 feet (1220 meters).
1990s–Present: Technological Advancements
From the 1990s onward, advancements in materials like titanium and ceramic, along with more sophisticated seals and helium escape valves, allowed watches to achieve even greater depths. Watches like the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean and Rolex Deepsea continued pushing depth ratings over 3000 meters.
Today, diver watches are appreciated not only for their practicality and durability but also as style icons, with designs largely rooted in the innovations of the 1950s and 1960s.
In summary, diver watches have evolved from basic waterproof designs in the early 20th century to highly engineered tools for professional divers and collectors alike.